Whirlpool Dryer Not Spinning? Diagnosis and Repair Guide
Step-by-step troubleshooting for Whirlpool dryers that won't spin. Learn about belt, motor, and drum issues plus when to call for professional repair.
Your Whirlpool dryer tumbles faithfully load after load—until one day it doesn't. A dryer that heats but won't spin leaves you with warm, wet clothes and a frustrating problem to solve. The good news: this is a common issue with identifiable causes.
Let's diagnose why your Whirlpool dryer stopped spinning.
How the Drum Spins
Understanding the spinning mechanism helps diagnose failures:
Belt-Driven System
Most Whirlpool dryers use a belt-driven drum:
- The motor turns a pulley
- A long, thin belt wraps around the drum and pulley
- The belt drives the drum rotation
- An idler pulley maintains belt tension
Direct-Drive System
Some newer models use direct-drive motors where the motor shaft connects directly to the drum. These are less common in Whirlpool dryers.
Quick Checks First
Before assuming a major failure:
Is the Dryer Running at All?
- No lights, no sounds: Check the circuit breaker (electric dryers use two breakers—if one trips, the dryer may not run at all)
- Lights work but nothing else: Door switch may be faulty
- Motor hums but drum doesn't turn: Likely belt or motor problem
Check the Door Switch
Whirlpool dryers won't spin if the door switch doesn't detect a closed door:
- Close the door firmly
- Listen for a clicking sound when the door latches
- Try pressing the door switch manually (usually visible when the door is open)
- If the dryer starts with manual pressure, the switch needs adjustment or replacement
Check for Overloading
An extremely heavy, wet load can prevent spinning:
- Remove half the load and try again
- Overloading puts excessive strain on the belt and motor
Common Causes: Why Whirlpool Dryers Stop Spinning
Broken Drive Belt
The most common cause of a Whirlpool dryer not spinning.
The belt is a thin, flat band about 1/4 inch wide that wraps around the drum. Over time, it wears, cracks, and eventually breaks.
Symptoms of a broken belt:
- Motor runs (you hear humming) but drum doesn't turn
- Drum rotates freely by hand (no resistance)
- Visual confirmation: You can see the broken belt inside
Testing:
- Unplug the dryer
- Open the top or front panel (depends on model)
- Try to turn the drum by hand—it should have some resistance
- No resistance = belt is broken
- Inspect the belt visually if accessible
Repair difficulty: Moderate DIY project Parts cost: $15-30 for the belt Time required: 30-60 minutes
Worn Drum Roller Support
Whirlpool dryers have rollers that support the drum as it spins. Worn rollers cause:
- Squeaking or thumping sounds
- Drum difficulty turning
- Eventually, the drum may stop turning entirely
Symptoms:
- Noise that developed gradually over weeks/months
- Drum is hard to turn by hand
- Visible flat spots or wear on rollers
Note: When replacing rollers, replace all of them—they wear at similar rates.
Drum Roller Axle
The axles the rollers spin on can wear out:
- Rollers wobble on worn axles
- Creates noise and eventual failure
- Usually replaced with the rollers
Worn Drum Bearing/Glides
At the front of the drum, bearing or glide supports help the drum rotate:
- Squealing sound from the front
- Drum difficult to turn
- May cause the drum to drop and bind
Idler Pulley Failure
The idler pulley maintains belt tension and redirects the belt:
Symptoms of idler pulley problems:
- Squeaking or squealing during operation
- Belt slips off
- Visible wear or damage to pulley
The pulley can:
- Seize up (bearing failure)
- Wear down (groove wears)
- Break entirely
Motor Failure
The drive motor turns the belt and fan. Motor failures cause:
No spinning:
- Motor doesn't run at all
- You may hear a hum (motor trying to start but failing)
Intermittent operation:
- Works sometimes, not others
- Gets worse over time
Testing the motor:
- Unplug the dryer
- Locate the motor (usually at the bottom)
- Try turning the motor shaft by hand—it should turn freely
- If it's seized or very stiff, the motor needs replacement
Motor symptoms that indicate specific problems:
- Hums but doesn't turn = seized motor or bad start switch
- Tries to start then stops = overheating or thermal overload issue
- No sound at all = could be motor or control issue
Drum Slide, Seal, or Bearing Issues
Components at the front and rear of the drum maintain smooth rotation:
Front drum glides/slides:
- Felt or plastic pieces the drum front rides on
- Squeaking or scraping sounds when worn
- Can cause the drum to bind
Rear drum bearing:
- Supports the drum at the rear
- Squeaking from the back of the dryer
- Drum difficult to turn
Step-by-Step Diagnosis
Step 1: Listen Carefully
Start the dryer and listen:
- Complete silence: Electrical issue, door switch, or control board
- Humming only: Motor running but drum not turning (belt or motor issue)
- Motor runs, fan blows, no drum rotation: Belt broken
- Grinding/squealing: Worn support components
Step 2: Inspect the Belt
- Unplug the dryer
- Access the drum (remove top panel or front panel depending on model)
- Check if the belt is intact and properly positioned
- Turn the drum by hand—should have resistance
Step 3: Check Drum Rotation
With the belt removed (or broken):
- Spin the drum by hand
- Should rotate freely without significant resistance
- Grinding, scraping, or inability to turn indicates roller/bearing issues
Step 4: Test the Motor
With the belt removed:
- Plug in and start the dryer (carefully)
- The motor should spin freely
- No motor movement indicates motor or electrical failure
Whirlpool-Specific Considerations
Model Numbers
Whirlpool dryer repairs vary by model. Common model series:
- WED/WGD series: Standard models
- Cabrio series: Higher-end with electronic controls
- Duet series: Front-load with specific belt routing
Part Compatibility
Whirlpool brands share many parts:
- Whirlpool
- Maytag
- KitchenAid
- Amana
- Roper
Parts often cross-reference between these brands.
Electronic Controls
Newer Whirlpool dryers with electronic controls may display error codes:
- PF: Power failure (usually just needs reset)
- E1/E2: Thermistor errors
- F1: Control board failure
Check your manual for model-specific codes.
DIY vs. Professional Repair
Good DIY Projects
Belt replacement:
- Relatively straightforward
- Parts are inexpensive
- Many YouTube tutorials available
- Typical time: 30-60 minutes
Drum rollers:
- More involved but doable
- Replace all rollers at once
- May need to remove drum
Better Left to Professionals
Motor replacement:
- More complex
- Motor is heavy and awkward
- Electrical connections involved
Control board issues:
- Diagnosis requires expertise
- Expensive parts to guess wrong
Drum bearing/rear seal:
- Requires significant disassembly
- Risk of improper reassembly
If uncertain:
- Misdiagnosis wastes money on wrong parts
- Improper reassembly can cause more damage
- Professional diagnosis may save money overall
Preventive Maintenance
Keep your Whirlpool dryer spinning reliably:
- Don't overload — Excessive weight strains belts and rollers
- Clean lint filter every load — Reduces strain on the motor
- Clean exhaust vent annually — Proper airflow reduces component stress
- Listen for changes — Address squeaking early, before complete failure
- Level the dryer — Uneven operation causes uneven wear
Whirlpool Dryer Repair in Metro Atlanta
If your Whirlpool dryer won't spin and you'd prefer professional diagnosis and repair, Appliance Dean services all Whirlpool products throughout Metro Atlanta.
We'll diagnose the problem accurately, carry common parts like belts and rollers, and get your dryer back to work quickly.
Call (404) 671-9117 or schedule service online for prompt Whirlpool dryer repair.