Dryer Not Heating? Complete Troubleshooting Guide

Your dryer tumbles for an hour, but the clothes come out just as wet as when they went in. A dryer that runs but doesn't heat is one of the most common laundry room complaints—and thankfully, it's often fixable.

Whether you have an electric or gas dryer, this guide walks you through the diagnostic process and helps you determine if it's a DIY fix or time to call a professional.

First: Rule Out Simple Causes

Before diving into component testing, check these common culprits:

Clogged Lint Filter

A completely clogged lint filter restricts airflow so severely that the dryer can't generate heat properly. Pull out the lint screen and clean it thoroughly. If you notice lint buildup on the screen's frame or housing, use a vacuum crevice tool to clean the slot.

Blocked Exhaust Vent

This is the number one cause of dryer heating problems we see in Metro Atlanta homes. The exhaust vent—the flexible or rigid duct that runs from your dryer to the outside—can become packed with lint over time.

Signs of a blocked vent:

• Clothes take two or three cycles to dry
• The dryer feels extremely hot to the touch
• Excessive lint around the dryer
• Musty smell in laundry area
• Lint visible at the outside vent flap

How to check: Go outside and feel the vent while the dryer runs. You should feel strong, warm airflow. Weak airflow indicates a blockage.

Atlanta homes often have long vent runs through walls or ceilings. These require professional cleaning every 1-2 years.

Incorrect Settings

Modern dryers have numerous settings that can confuse the diagnosis:

• Air Fluff or No Heat setting selected accidentally
• Eco mode uses lower temperatures
• Wrinkle prevent tumbles without heat

Check your control panel before assuming a mechanical failure.

Electric Dryer Heating Components

Electric dryers heat air using a heating element—a coil of high-resistance wire that glows red when current passes through it. Several components work together:

Heating Element

The heating element is a coiled wire inside a metal housing. Over time, the wire can break or short against the housing.

Testing: With the dryer unplugged, locate the heating element (usually behind the drum or in the back panel). Use a multimeter to test for continuity. No continuity means the element is broken.

Average replacement cost: $100-200 including parts and labor.

Thermal Fuse

This is a safety device that blows if the dryer overheats—often due to a clogged vent. The thermal fuse is a one-time-use component; once blown, it must be replaced.

Location: Usually on the blower housing or exhaust duct inside the dryer.

Important: If your thermal fuse blows, always investigate why. Replacing the fuse without fixing the underlying cause (usually a vent blockage) will just cause it to blow again.

High-Limit Thermostat

This thermostat monitors dryer temperature and cuts power to the heating element if it gets too hot. Unlike the thermal fuse, it should reset after cooling—but it can fail permanently.

Cycling Thermostat

The cycling thermostat turns the heating element on and off to maintain the set temperature. When it fails, the dryer may not heat at all or may overheat.

Gas Dryer Heating Components

Gas dryers use a burner to heat air. They're generally more economical to operate but have more components that can fail:

Gas Valve Solenoids

Gas dryers have two or three solenoid coils that open the gas valve. These coils frequently fail, especially on older units. When they fail, gas can't reach the burner.

Symptoms: The igniter glows but the burner doesn't light, or the dryer heats initially but stops mid-cycle.

Igniter

The igniter is a glowing element that lights the gas. It's visible through a small window near the burner. If the igniter doesn't glow at all, it's likely failed.

Testing: Watch through the igniter window during startup. A working igniter glows bright orange for 30-90 seconds before gas ignites.

Flame Sensor

The flame sensor confirms that the burner has lit. If it fails, the control board won't allow gas to flow as a safety measure.

Gas Supply

Before assuming component failure, verify your gas supply:

• Is the dryer's gas shutoff valve open?
• Are other gas appliances working?
• Has your gas been turned off for any reason?

Step-by-Step Diagnosis

For Electric Dryers:

1. Check the circuit breaker. Electric dryers use two breakers (or a double-pole breaker). If one trips, the dryer may tumble but not heat.

2. Test the outlet. Use a multimeter to verify 240V at the outlet. A dryer receiving only 120V will run the motor but not the heating element.

3. Inspect the heating element. Look for visible breaks in the coil.

4. Test the thermal fuse. This is the most common failure point after vent blockages.

5. Check thermostats. Test both the high-limit and cycling thermostats for continuity.

For Gas Dryers:

1. Verify gas supply. Check the shutoff valve and other gas appliances.

2. Watch the igniter. A glowing igniter that doesn't light the gas points to solenoid or gas valve issues.

3. Check the thermal fuse. Gas dryers have them too.

4. Inspect the flame sensor. A cracked or dirty flame sensor can prevent ignition.

Brands and Common Issues

Samsung and LG

These Korean brands use electronic controls extensively. Error codes on the display often point to the specific failed component:

• Samsung: HE or HE1 = heating error
• LG: d80, d90, d95 = vent flow restriction

Whirlpool and Maytag

Known for reliability, but thermal fuses fail frequently—usually indicating a vent blockage that needs addressing.

GE and Hotpoint

Older GE models have heating element issues. Newer models with electronic controls may display error codes.

Bosch and Miele

European brands with condenser or heat pump technology. These don't vent externally but have their own unique failure modes. Professional service is usually recommended.

When to Call a Professional

Contact an appliance repair technician if:

• You smell gas — Leave your home and call your gas company immediately
• You're not comfortable with electrical testing — Working with 240V is dangerous
• The diagnosis isn't clear — Replacing parts randomly gets expensive
• Multiple components have failed — This suggests an underlying issue
• Your dryer is under warranty — DIY repairs may void coverage

Preventing Future Heating Problems

Most dryer heating failures trace back to poor maintenance:

1. Clean the lint filter after every load
2. Clean the exhaust vent annually (more often for long runs)
3. Don't overload — clothes need room to tumble
4. Inspect the vent flap outside to ensure it opens freely
5. Keep the area around your dryer clear for proper airflow

Professional Dryer Repair in Metro Atlanta

If your dryer isn't heating and you've ruled out the basics, Appliance Dean can help. We repair all major brands—Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, Bosch, and more—throughout Metro Atlanta.

Our technicians carry common parts like heating elements, thermal fuses, and gas valve solenoids, often completing repairs in a single visit.

Call (404) 671-9117 or request service online for prompt diagnosis and repair.